![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:55 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
how would you go about insulating a shipping container?
If they are 8' wide,you instantly lose probably 2" each side with the corrugated walls which brings you to 7'8". The most common insulating material i’m familiar with is closed cell poly-sumthin-shit which has an R value of 7.5 per inch. So 3" of that gets you 21.5. then sheet rock, so that puts you around 7' clear. All options are good options.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:57 |
|
I’d spray in between the corrugation before putting up foam.
Any chance of adding insulation on the outside?
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:57 |
|
http://containertech.com/about-containers/insulating-a-shipping-container/
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:58 |
|
Frame the inside and use blow-in insulation
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:59 |
|
Spray foam seems to give you the most interior room but has the highest cost
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:59 |
|
My thought exactly, use that corrugation to hold your insulator.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:59 |
|
Depends on what you’re using it for.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 14:59 |
|
From experience, I’ve used closed cell spray foam and it’s done a fantastic job.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:00 |
|
Assuming it’s going to be static, there you go. If it is going to move around you’ll want to use an expanding foam that turns solid otherwise all the insulation will pack down in the bottom.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:00 |
|
I’ve seen blown polyfill done behind the sheetrock before, but I don’t think that insulates too well. Also, spray-on foam (similar to Fix-a-flat), which turns rigid (like fix-a-flat), but supposedly insulates pretty well.
Other than that, I think you’re down to expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) sheets.
(I don’t know much about shipping container insulation, aside from what I’ve picked up during my own research.)
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:02 |
|
blow in has an R value of 4 per inch or less.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:02 |
|
thats the closed cell stuff @ 7.5 per inch, blow in is 3-4 per inch
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:03 |
|
I’d love to use four* or so shipping crates as a house. Two on the bottom for kitchen/dining/living room, two on top for a bedroom and office, perpendicular to each other, put a deck on top of the bottom ones, do a mostly open concept design, could be cool.
*may need more than four
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:04 |
|
nothing on the outside. the corrugated steel is a nice exterior weather barrier, so any insulation on the outside would have to then get another layer of siding or something
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:05 |
|
thats the best I can come up with just from my house building experience. I was hoping there would be something with a better R value but it doesn;t seem like it.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:05 |
|
insulating a metal container for a habitability space in a cold enviroment
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:07 |
|
Keeping cold out and warmth from some sort of heating source IN?
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:10 |
|
I know the R value isn’t the greatest but remember you’re trying to insulate something that isn’t designed to retain heat and is built out of thin metal.
If you told me as a child that bats of insolation would turn into spray foam I’d have called you mad! haha It astonishes me just how far we’ve come with technology.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:12 |
|
thats the plan
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:21 |
|
I know nothing about this, but maybe do a 1x2 frame, spray insulation between frame and metal, and then 1 sheet of insulation? Either way, id spray insulate between the framing for drywall and the container.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:29 |
|
Check this site out: http://seacontainercabin.blogspot.com/p/framing.html
You could also embed one side in a hill, that’ll provide natural insulation and minimize space loss.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:43 |
|
I’d think the poly blow-in insulation is the answer here...as you say, definitely not the cellulose stuff. I’m talking about the kind that they spray on and then use a screed to level off so they can drywall over it.
I’ve considered doing the same in my current home. It was built in ‘27 and was insulated with cellulose before we moved in. As the house is a balloon-framed 2.5-story, it’s a fair bet that cellulose is settling more than it should. Unfortunately, there’s more pressing issues to deal with at the moment.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:44 |
|
Maybe some automotive grade reflective stick on carpet insulation like Dynamat but better insulation qualities?
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:46 |
|
thats a good find.
i had thought of sheltering in the hill but i’d also like to either span a steam with it or extend it off a slope with a couple steel legs down to the ground
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:53 |
|
The one I have has a thin layer of spray on foam on the roof. Works to stop condensation but that’s about it.
If I was doing this I’d use the corrugations to put support timbers in then sheet over with Kingspan sheet insulation (not sure what the local equivalent is). Either use the drywall faced stuff or screw drywall sheet hrough to the wood in the corrugations.
![]() 10/14/2016 at 15:58 |
|
http://www.containerhomeplans.org/
![]() 10/15/2016 at 13:54 |
|
I would suggest something other than spanning a stream. In my experience, streams have a tendency to get a LOT bigger, and shipping containers have a tendency to float (at least for a little while). Those two things don’t go together very well, IMO.
I’d be perfectly down with living in a container completely buried in a hill, though. Maybe even connect a few together and build a tunnel complex. Make your own little hobbit hole.
![]() 10/15/2016 at 14:38 |
|
Meh I’ll make sure to add an anchor. Honestly tho, I would expect the conservation department would never let that pass. It’d just a start to get the concept in motion. Think of it like a concept car, flashy at the start and ends up just another car.